60 years of Zweigelt on the Maierhofberg
Under this motto, the Thaller family hosted a 10-course gala menu in the pavilion of their wine castle on 17 August 2023. It was served exclusively with Blauer Zweigelt wines from a total of 11 different vintages. First of all, it was an evening of outstanding culinary delights and a Zweigelt showcase that took wine lovers back to 1997.
Die STory to the Wine
Zweigelt is an Austrian grape variety that was successfully bred at the Klosterneuburg School of Viticulture in 1922. Zweigelt is the result of a cross between Blaufränkisch and Sankt Laurent. The first Zweigelt vines were planted on the Maierhofberg 60 years ago by Karl (V.) Thaller. The wines were served on 17 August 2023 in glasses specially designed by Riedel for Weinschloss Thaller, in the smaller white wine glasses (WWG) or the larger red wine glasses (RWG), depending on the maturity and strength of the wines.
Zweigelt 2021 | 12.5 % Vol. | WWG
This classic Zweigelt was poured slightly chilled as an entry-level wine and immediately proved that red wine in this form can also be a great pleasure on warm summer evenings. Medium-dark violet colour with a watery rim; floral notes in the nose, violets, dark berries as well as a hint of plum and cherry notes; a beautiful cherry-soft cherry aroma unfolds on the palate; carried by a fine acid structure; beautiful harmony and good drinkability right through to the delicate finish: an ideal summer red wine and an excellent accompaniment to Italian-style pasta dishes.
Zweigelt Reserve 1997 | 13 % Vol. | WWG
Already a very light brick red colour with light brownish reflections; delicate ethereal notes on the nose; some rum pot on the palate; very delicate; the acidity is just sufficient to keep this 25-year-old wine alive; not too long. Certainly at the end of its career. Nevertheless, an interesting look back to another era of winemaking, not only at the Thaller winery!
Zweigelt Reserve 2002 | 13 % Vol. | WWG
Medium garnet-red colour with a broad rim; delicately rum-like aroma; on the palate it shows considerably more presence than the 97; carried by a lively acidity structure, it has a red berry flavour, especially red currants; the whole is supported by crumbly tannins; a surprisingly youthful wine for 20 years, which dances light-footedly across the palate; also shows good length in the filigree but delicate finish. Definitely a positive surprise from the hot 2002 vintage and proof of the good ageing potential of this variety, even at moderate alcohol levels!
Zweigelt Reserve 2008 | 13,5 % Vol. | RWG
With the completion of the new winery in 2006, there was also a change in style in the red wine segment, away from relatively light, delicate wines towards full-bodied, powerful representatives. This change in style was also evident in the 2008.
Very dark red, almost black at the core, only narrowly brightened at the edges; expressive and delicate aroma, dark berries, lots of spice, some roasted aromas, very ripe sour cherries; ripe sour cherry fruit on the palate; carried by a lively acid structure and solid tannins; substantial and present appearance; fruit sweetness and well-integrated acidity play with each other to then unite harmoniously; youthful appearance despite already being around 15 years old; good length in the flavourful finish. Fully at its peak and still a long way from the end!
Zweigelt Reserve 2000 | 13,5 % Vol. | WWG
Relatively dark brick red with a broad rim; some dried fruit on the nose, ethereal, filigree; acidic on the palate, some red berry fruit notes, with time and air some sweetness joins in; still little harmony. Not very enjoyable (for me at least). Also appears somewhat haggard and reflects the heat of the 2000 vintage.
Zweigelt Reserve 2005 | 13,5 % Vol. | ?WG
Relatively light brick red, broad rim brightening; intensely ethereal aroma, a hint of eucalyptus; strong presence on the palate; the acidity is present, but very well integrated, creating a harmonious flavour, some dark chocolate, cocoa; delicate dark cherry fruit in the retro-olfaction, finely velvety; crumbly tannins; good length. On the point. Very good!
Zweigelt Reserve 2006 | 13,5 % Vol. | RWG
Relatively dark red, narrow edge brightening; the powerful aroma shows ripe cherry fruit, underlaid with chocolate notes, slightly liqueur-like; fine spice on the palate, impressive presence, sour cherry-chocolate notes; carried by a youthful acidity that gives a lot of freshness; beautiful interplay of fruit sweetness and acidity; multi-layered wine that dances across the palate and impresses once again with beautiful sour cherry flavours in the delicate finish. Very nice wine, on point!
Zweigelt Reserve 2010 | 13,5 % Vol. | RWG
This wedding wine for Bettina Thaller and Marc Kruder comes from the difficult 2010 vintage. Very dark red, narrow rim brightening; a hint of sour cherry liqueur on the nose, some cassis; spicy on the palate, austere with a lively acid structure that lends the wine a lot of youthfulness; tart, but not uncharming; blackcurrants, hint of chocolate; finishes gently, nice retro-gusto and good length.
Zweigelt Reserve 2018 | 13,5 % Vol. | RWG
Relatively dark red, narrow edge brightening; the powerful aroma shows ripe cherry fruit, underlaid with chocolate notes, slightly liqueur-like; fine spice on the palate, impressive presence, sour cherry-chocolate notes; carried by a youthful acidity that gives a lot of freshness; beautiful interplay of fruit sweetness and acidity; multi-layered wine that dances across the palate and impresses once again with beautiful sour cherry flavours in the delicate finish. Very nice wine, on point!
Zweigelt Reserve 2012 | 13,5 % Vol. | RWG
Deep dark red colour, almost black at the core, very narrow edge brightening; the puristic aroma shows youthful cherry and sour cherry notes; very harmonious and balanced on the palate, beautiful fruit expression, again cherry and sour cherry, joined by delicate chocolate notes, all wonderfully interwoven, pure harmony, elegant expression. A wine from a single mould right into the long finish. Great condition!
ERUPTION ROT 2017 | 14 % VOL. | RWG
The Eruption Rot is the pure Zweigelt essence from the heart of the Gallerin vineyard. This wine matures for 3 years in wooden barrels and was made for the first time from the 2017 vintage. Deep dark red colour, black at the core, very narrow violet rim; concentrated aroma of dark heart cherries, delicate roasted notes; enormously expressive on the palate, pure sour cherry; a great acid structure carries the wine; enormously complex; densely woven, beautiful tannin structure; time and air expose layer after layer; remains “eternally” on the palate, great fruit sweetness on the finish.
A great wine at the beginning of a great future!
Zweigelt, neu erfunden!
Zweigelt is not only the most important and most widespread red wine variety in Austria (6,000 hectares), it also plays the main role in the red wine estate Weinschloss Thaller with a cultivation area of 7 hectares. Typical of this variety is its distinctive cherry-soft cherry flavour.
While the Zweigelt from Koarl Thaller’s early decades tended to be more delicate and fruity (the national victory with the 86 as cellar master of the Stubenberg Count Herberstein or the legendary 1988 vintage from his own winery are unforgettable! From the 2006 vintage onwards, the Zweigelt Reserve became a “little Rochus”, so to speak.
With Katharina and Karl Gregor taking over responsibility for winemaking from the 2017 harvest, a clearly defined reorientation in terms of flavour is now once again evident. The classically matured Zweigelt is fruity and relatively light in alcohol at 12.5% vol., making it the perfect red “all-day wine” in the best sense of the word. The Zweigelt Reserve returns to its roots, impresses with a wonderful, varietal cherry-soft fruit flavour, has sufficient strength and substance at 13.5% vol. without being heavy or overloaded. Elegance is clearly in the foreground. The Premium Reserve, the Eruption Rot, is a high-end Zweigelt that goes one better in terms of power and expression and demonstrates what you can get out of this variety.
In terms of ageing potential, this tasting has shown that the premium wines can mature for 10 years or more without hesitation and that the reserve category will continue to provide great pleasure for 15 years or more.
Gerald L. Guschlbauer
You want to know more about or have another question?
Just write a short mail at
victoria@weinschloss-thaller.at
I look forward to hearing or reading from you!
Kind regards,
Victoria